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Thesis

French

ID: <

10670/1.byis4p

>

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Abstract

This research in Museum studies focuses on exhibitions of French commercial perfumery in perfume and art museums throughout France. Starting with the history of exhibitions of commercial items in museums from the mid-19th century until luxury brands exhibitions at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the 1980s, the study examines the birth and the development of different museum projects related to the French perfume industry (Château de Chamerolles, Esprit du Parfum in Chartres, Cour des Senteurs of Versailles, Collection Sylvie Guerlain-Traditions Verrières in the town of Eu) as well as the growth of luxury brands’ exhibitions in public museums (Chanel, Dior, Roger & Gallet). Public authorities’ policies, perfume brands’ strategies or motivations of public museums which host such exhibitions are analyzed one by one. The case of the International Museum of Perfumery (1989) in Grasse deserves a study in its own right: I consider the history of the museum, the museum’s section of the 20th century perfumery, the role of corporate sponsorship in enriching museum collections as well as the local competition from private perfume museums set up by Fragonard, Molinard or Galimard brands. The last chapter focuses on French department stores and their fashion exhibitions’ programs capable of competing with public museums’ attractions and leading to the progressive blurring of boundaries between a museum space and a commercial one.

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